Designed for the third generation MX-5 Built from heavy wall tubing these bars are a serious upgrades from the stock NC equipment. Works with factory soft-top. A slightly shorter removable hard top version is optional. It comes standard with no diagonals.
Double diagonals are an option. Other options include a harness bar, rear speaker bracket and a removable Petty bar front brace are options. M4 Sport. Built from heavy wall 1. The aluminum factory cross brace and hoops are removed and replaced.
A harness bar with an integral top latch bracket is included as standard equipment. The stock seat belts are retained without alteration. Double diagonals is the only option. A traditional roll bar designed with more rearward placement for better head clearance that doesn't interfere with the stock seat belts. The flexibility of this design allows us to offer this bar in many configurations to include: one or two diagonals, harness bar and side or top main hoop rear bracing.
Fits all Miatas from - , compatible with Mazda hardtop, plastic rear window soft tops and aftermarket or OEM glass rear window convertible tops. The deuce mounts in the same way as the Ace.
It is a true double hoop roll bar and has a classic look to it. It is available in black powder coated mild steel only. It is compatible with first and second generation Miatas and works with most plastic and glass rear windows and OEM hardtops. It is not compatible with factory wind blockers. The Deuce can be ordered in two different configurations. Center braced rear supports give a classic Shelby Cobra look. Side braced gives a cleaner double hoop appearance.
Harness tabs are optional. This bar is pretty twisted. It has a very unique look. Installation is similar to the Hard Dog Sport. It uses 1. The Xtreme is compatible with all first and second generation Miatas and does not interfere with most plastic and glass rear windows and OEM hardtops.
Hard Bar. The Hard Bar is the easiest bar to install. A 4-point bar made of 1. While this bar can add roll over protection it may not meet safety regulations at track events which typically require reaward bracing. It is compatible with all first and second generation Miatas and does not interfere with plastic or glass rear windows and factory hardtops. Designed for the third generation MX-5 with power retractable hardtop. PRHT This bar actually uses the 1. This roll bar replaces the factory hoops and works with the PRHT.
A single diagonal is not an option. Double diagonals and a harness bar are options. Options also include rear speaker bracket, high-density foam padding and leather or vinyl covers. Door Bars. A torsionally stiff chassis will keep a more even load on all wheels to improve traction.
The stiffer a chassis, the more likely the vehicle is to have even weight distribution on all tires which is favorable to cornering and superior handling. The Bolt-In Door Bars are easily installed in all ' model Miatas in conjunction with any version Hard Dog Roll Bar or even if no roll bar has been installed with minimal interference to normal use of the car. Additional rear back up plates are required if the door bars are to be used without a roll bar or with the Ace, Deuce or Hard Bar models.
Bolt-in Harness Bar. The Bolt-In Harness Bar is designed for competition harness wrap-around shoulder strap attachment. Easily installed in all year model Miatas in conjunction with any version of The Hard Bar, Sport Bar or Hard Core Bar with the least amount of interference for normal use of the car. Requires no drilling or panel alteration.
Serves as a retrofit in situations where harness attachments were not ordered with a roll bar, or if you have an M2 bar with harness tabs and track event rules require individual shoulder strap attachments.
Roll Bar Padding. You can dress up the bar and protect the padding from the sun with a custom stitched cover available in black vinyl or leather. The covers and padding are available when ordering a roll bar or separately if you already have a Hard Dog roll bar. Hard Dog Hard Core Bar This roll bar has a beefy appearance since it is made out of proprietary alloy drawn over mandrel tubing 1. Stock seats and belts are compatible for the competitor that wants to maintain a dual purpose car for street and track events.
The M1 Hard Core comes standard with a single diagonal but is available with double diagonals or X Brace diagonals. The Standard M1 Hard Core is not designed for use with a hardtop. Hard Dog M2 Hard Core 4-point roll bar is designed for Miata with a glass rear window and plastic window soft top on Miata. Hard Dog M2 Sport for Miata with a glass rear window. Is compatible with plastic window soft top on Miata or removable hardtop. Hard Dog M3 Sport for Miata with a soft top or removable hardtop.
Not compatible with power retractable hardtop. Not compatible with power retractable Targa top. Hard Dog Ace 8-point roll bar with plenty of options for Miata. It sits farther back for max head clearance. Hard Dog Deuce is a true double hoop roll bar with a classic look.
Compatible with Miatas most glass rear windows and hardtops. Hard Dog Xtreme has a very unique look. A claw hammer is a good tool for removing the plastic carpet fasteners. Lower the top. Pre '99 leave the window zipped in, be careful not to crease the window Some sort of cover for the window is not a bad idea. Lift the cover up and out of the car. Remove the insulation pads on either side of the fuel tank cover. On the ' models there's a computer mounted behind the passenger seat, the outer mounting bracket will need to be modified and the upper mounting stud removed to allow clearance for the roll bar mounting plate.
FIG 8 To create clearance for the rearward braces, you will need to trim the package shelf area just behind the fuel tank cover opening as shown in FIG HC1.
You will also need to remove the spare tire and the metal panel at the front of the trunk on the driver's side the one with the jack handle attached if you are working on an NA.
While it's not absolutely necessary to do so, I find it helpful to remove the front trunk panels in the NB as well. They are held in by several of the plastic push-rivet fasteners. If the car has antilock brakes you will need to relocate the ABS sensor wiring harnesses.
Jack up the rear of the car and support with sturdy jack stands. Remove the wheels and the plastic inner splash panels. The harnesses run from the sensors, mounted next to the brake rotors, up through rubber bulkhead plugs in the areas just to either side of the fuel tank. Unplug the connectors, untangle the harnesses from the wire holders and other wiring, push the bulkhead plugs through and pull the wires through into the wheel wells.
Reroute the wiring and reinstall the bulkhead plugs. Also watch the front mounting plates, they will be very close to the seat backs at this point. The lower mounting points align with the lower seat belt reel bolt holes. The roll bar plates fit against the seat belt reels which stay in their original location but do NOT use the original spacers.
FIG HC2 Once the bar and the seat belt reels are in position, snug but do not completely tighten the seat belt reel mounting plates using bolts from the hardware kit and small OD flat washers from the stock bolts.
Make sure that your seat belts are on the inside of the roll bar. On some cars the captive nut for the belt reel bolt will not be exactly vertical and will make threading the bolt difficult or impossible with the bar installed. Use a large Phillips screwdriver or tapered bar working through the roll bar mounting slot to align the nut. Locate the position for the rear back-up plates by drilling the first hole down from the top if you have an angle drill.
If you don't have an angle drill, heavily center punch through one of the outer mounting plate holes. You should be able to feel the punch mark from under the wheel well to locate the hole location.
Drill fron under the car using a standard drill. Once you get the first hole drilled, bolt the back-up plate in place. The others can be done from under the car using the back-up plate as a template.
The flanged locknuts do not require a washer. Use the supplied washers under the bolt heads. We want the reinforcement plate to wedge tightly against the unibody rail. Drill at an angle if necessary, put the bolts through and tighten to ft-lbs.
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