Wallbase — Borders the wood floor at the base of the wall to give the room a finished look. Wallbase along with the Quarter Round conceals the required expansion space between the wall and the hardwood flooring. It is also sometimes used under cabinets and toe kicks. Threshold — Used at exterior doorways as a transition between flooring and the doorway threshold. It also can be used to transition a wood floor to different floor types, such as high pile carpeting or tile, to create a more exact fit.
Another typical use for a threshold is to conceal the expansion space between the flooring and a vertical surface such as fireplace hearths and sliding glass doors. T-Molding — Doorway molding used to join two wood floors in adjoining rooms.
Also used when making transitions from a wood floor to another floor that is approximately the same height, such as ceramic tile, hardwood, or laminate floors. T-Moldings are also used to provide expansion joints when a floor dimension exceeds the length or a width of 40 feet.
Overlap Reducer Floating Method — With hardwood floors that utilize the floating installation method, use an Overlap Reducer to join a hardwood floor with floors of different heights such as vinyl, ceramic tile, or low pile carpeting. Overlap Stairnose Floating Method — Overlap Stairnose provide the proper transition for stairways or steps which have hardwood floors that have been installed using the floating installation method.
The Stairnose also provides the proper overhang for a transition from one floor level to the next, such as the step into a sunken living room. April 16, at Does click flooring go under new kitchen cabinets or butt up to them. I have been told to not put the flooring under the cabinets as it will buckle. May 11, at You will need to butt the floating floor up to the cabinets because they will be too heavy and the floor will not be able to expand and contract. Please let us know if you have any other questions!
October 4, at October 6, at Thank you for getting in touch! December 27, at I recently bought Jasper Engineered Hardwood and had it installed floating over concrete slab with underlay. The boards are sliding apart some now. What kind of glue do you recommend to hold the planks together? January 6, at I highly suggest giving us a call at so we can help figure out what is causing your floor to separate.
It would be best to find the underlying issue and fix that rather than glue the floor back together then find it separates again. Please let us know if you have any other questions, we look forward to hearing from you! July 20, at Amazing guide! Proper installation leads to longer life time. I learn some info from your blog post. March 22, at I am thinking of ordering the hickory engendered hardwood flooring. Am I able to do this without using nails, or glue.
March 24, at Our engineered hardwood floors that are not click lock can be installed by either gluing, nailing or floating. Because it is a tongue and groove product however, if you were to float it, you would still need to glue the boards together and float it over an underlayment.
October 15, at We purchased an oak engineered floating floor to go over in-floor electric heat cable. We have put a leveling compound over the cable and are now ready to install the floor. We want to avoid any materials that might off-gas. It appears that you can lay the floor directly on the leveling compound but we are concerned about clicking noises. Thanks in advance for any information you can provide. Pingback: How the wooden flooring is done?
June 11, at Hi planning on installing engineered wood in living-room,dining-room,hallway ,kitchen and stairs down to a landing.
The stairs 7 has one side against a wall the other side is open. Question, how would i finish the open side,do i have to buy more bull nose and cut to fit? Thanks Jim. January 30, at October 25, at Hi, We installed engineered wood glue-less click over concrete with felt underlayment. The wood is beautiful but has clicking noise whenever we walk over. The installer told us it will go away after a month or so but now I doubt it. Is it true the nose will go away or is there any way to reduce the noise?
October 26, at If you purchased a regular underlay, it may not have the sound accoustical barrier which means your floor may have the clicking sound when you walk on it. July 19, at Hi, after getting wet, one of our engineered oak boards has lifted in a corner.
It is right in the middle of the floor so I assume we cant replace it without removing the whole floor? Is this correct? Can I nail the face down or will the wood split? July 2, at If we have to put a seam on the stair where should we put it? In the middle or more to the side? Thank you. October 23, at We have a propane gas stove that sits on a tile hearth in one corner of the room. We would like to move that back in the house, as we moved it out when the floor was installed.
We are being told that we cannot place the hearth on top of this floating floor without saw cutting around it. Is this true? We really do not want to do this in case we ever move it out of the room and besides do not see the difference in weight between this stove and a large refrigerator setting on the same floor. October 24, at Thank you for your inquiry. In order for me to better answer your question, I do need to know what kind of floor you purchased.
Did you buy the flooring from us? What are the dimensions of the flooring? But I would still like to know what type of flooring it is so I can give you a better response. Your email address will not be published. Learning Center Find the answers to your home improvement questions. Glueless Click Engineered Flooring. Related posts: No related posts. John - Reply April 16, at Hi John, You will need to butt the floating floor up to the cabinets because they will be too heavy and the floor will not be able to expand and contract.
Don Lewis - Reply October 4, at As well as providing moisture protection, foam also provides a cushiony sub-layer that gives makes the floor more comfortable to walk on. You can also use tar paper, kraft paper or sheet plastic.
Practice assembling boards before you begin laying them. Notice they have a tongue on one side and end and a groove on the other. Lay one board on the floor with either side facing you and hold another board at an angle with the opposite side facing the board on the floor. Push the board you are holding against the one on the floor until it locks with the one on the floor, then lower the raised end. The two boards should snap together. Connect boards end to end in the same way. Lay the first course along a wall that runs in the same direction as you want the grain of the wood to run.
You'll be able to cover this gap with baseboard at the end of the installation. Snap the boards together end to end, and when you reach the wall, cross-cut a board to fit in the gap between the last board and the wall with a handheld cutting tool. Lay the board in the gap and pull it against the last board in the course with a pull bar, a specialty tool for laminate installations available from any laminate dealer. Pulling in this way will lock the boards together. If you have trouble getting the boards to lock together, tap the curved handle of the pull bar with a hammer.
Cut a board to begin the next course or use the off-cut from the last course. Board ends in adjacent courses should be staggered by at least 6 inches for stability and appearance. Lay the next course and all subsequent courses by snapping boards together side to side and using a tapping block to lock them together end to end.
Laminate dealers sell plastic tapping blocks made for this purpose. Cut notches and curves for doorways, cabinets and other obstructions with a jigsaw or a handheld multipurpose tool and cutting accessory. Fitting the flooring around these obstacles requires careful measurement and cutting, because you often can't hide all the gaps with baseboards.
Rip boards to fit in the gap between the second-last course and the wall opposite the one from which you started with a handheld cutting tool. Lay each board flat, pry it sideways with the pull bar and then use the tapping block to lock it into the end of the previous board. Install baseboard around the entire floor by nailing it to the bottom plate of the wall, not the flooring.
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